Pay a visit to a city full of famous fairy-tale characters, Unesco World Heritage sites, massive breweries, charming old quarters and exciting modern ones too! Words by Ed Chamberlin. Photography by Tim Fulda
GET THE VIBE…
SEEK OUT SOME NORTHERN SOUL
Stepping out of Bremen’s magnificent Town Hall, I am promptly greeted by a donkey. “You must be Edward,” says the donkey. “Indeed I am,” I reply. “Well, stand back a moment, I’m about to attract some attention.”
My new donkey friend launches into a loud recitation of the story of the Town Musicians of Bremen, and is soon joined by a barking dog, a meowing cat and a squawking rooster, to the considerable amusement of a gathering of tourists on the old-town square.
The donkey is in fact Christina Renken, part of a local street theatre troupe called Theater Interaktiwo (www.theater-interaktiwo.de), who will be performing this Brothers Grimm tale in full animal outfits every Sunday at 12pm (until October) in front of St Peter’s Cathedral.
The story about these plucky animal musicians is referenced all over town. It is a tale about strength in numbers, and it’s easy to see how this would appeal to Bremers. A member of the Hanseatic League, Bremen’s residents have long understood that trade and cooperation is part of what makes their city great.
Your visit will likely start in the historical town centre where the Unesco bigwigs decided to bestow the status of World Heritage Site on not one, but two objects within mere metres of each another: the gothic/neo-Renaissance Town Hall, and the statue of Roland, the brave knight of Charlemagne, slyly grinning at St Peter’s Cathedral with sword and shield at the ready. He is a symbol of the city’s defiant and autonomous nature.
Entrepreneurial flair is rife in the city – across the square you’ll find Böttcherstrasse, Bremen’s most famous street. It’s actually more like a massive outdoor work of art, its intriguing architecture an initiative of Café HAG founder and decaf coffee inventor Ludwig Roselius. Today, the street’s artisans can be found creating everything from luxury jewellery to sweets and bonbons in the windows before your very eyes.
The other end of Böttcherstrasse spills out onto the Schlachte – a catwalk where people parade up and down in snazzy clothes while denizens of the beer gardens and cafés look on in appreciation. The Schlachte runs along the Weser river, from which much of Bremen’s industrial history stems – with cargo ships running back and forth ferrying everything from wool to fish. Along the Schlachte, a tower with a familiar logo looms: the Beck’s beer brewery. Well, don’t you think the folk transporting stuff up and down the river deserved a drink once they were done?
Two of Bremen’s most distinctive districts, Schnoor and Viertel, sit next door to one another, yet are diametrically opposite in terms of style. Schnoor is the oldest area of town – impossibly cute, with narrow streets framed by 17th-century buildings. Here you’ll find shops selling arts, crafts and traditional Bremen sweets, as well as a muddle of tourists hypnotised by its sheer charm.
Nearby is Viertel (a shortening of Ostertorviertel). Awash with design shops and bars, this is where you can temporarily escape the tourism and immerse yourself in the actual life of the Bremers. Go here after dark and you’ll experience the nightlife in full flow: smoky bars, live music, weird hairstyles and seemingly non-existent closing times.
To describe Bremen in brief is almost impossible, but if I may over-extend an analogy for a moment, the city is much like its famous musicians: doggedly industrious like a donkey, alert and friendly like a dog, agile and pretty like a cat, and raucously loud like a rooster. And, like the musicians themselves, together these aspects add up to more than the sum of their parts.
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ON THE STREET…
MUSIC, MUSEUMS AND MORE
Bremen is so full of historic places that simply wandering around town can feel like a museum visit. Of course, the pièce de résistance is the Rathaus (Town Hall), which is one-third gothic, two-thirds neo-Renaissance and was built over the course of six centuries. Join one of the daily tours (www.bremen-tourism.de) that take you through the magnificent Upper Hall, with its hanging model ships with working canons, and on to the regal Golden Chamber.
Nearby Böttcherstrasse (www.boettcherstrasse.de 1 ) is another must-see. Just over 100m long, it was constructed between 1922 and 1931. The entrance is announced by an eye-catching gold mural called the Bringer of Light, beckoning you into its Expressionist red-brick midst. There are shops, museums, a casino and restaurants here, but do pay attention to the architecture itself, which is brimming with exciting flourishes. At one end, a small crowd gathers every day from 12pm to 6pm on the hour to hear an orchestra of 30 porcelain bells ring out a sweet melody from the Glockenspiel House.
Art fans need look no further than the Weserburg museum (www.weserburg.de 2 ), Bremen’s venue for contemporary art. Housed in a former cigarette factory, the collection includes notable works such as Anthony Gormley’s Quantum Cloud IX, and Maurizio Cattelan’s Love Saves Lives and Love Lasts Forever: a lifelike replica of the Town Musicians of Bremen facing a skeletal reflection of itself.
Science buffs can sate themselves at the Universum (www.universum-bremen.de 3 ), a massive structure next door to the University, which looks like a UFO or perhaps a giant pistachio nut. Inside is a part museum/ part playground for kids and adults alike – as you explore the human body, the Earth and cosmos via some ingeniously designed exhibits. After going all sciencey, a visit to the Überseemuseum (www.uebersee-museum.de 4 ), just behind the main train station, offers inventive exhibitions about world culture.
But in Bremen, music is what you want. And if you want music in the most bombastic fashion possible, Hans-Joachim Frey has just the ticket. For the past three years, the artistic director of Theater Bremen (www.theaterbremen.de 5 ) has been realising a dream of bringing opera to the people with his spectacular Seebühne ( 6 )– a monolithic opera stage floating in the harbour by the Waterfront Mall. Following on from The Flying Dutchman in 2008 and Aida in 2009, Frey is bringing this wonderfully accessible version of opera back this year from 12–26 June, with Puccini’s Turandot – a complex love story set in ancient China (for tickets call +49 (0)421 365 3333 or visit www.theaterbremen.de). Book by 11 June, and you can enter yourself into a prize draw by sending your name and contact details to email@example.com with “Ryanair” in the subject line, to win a meet and greet with the artists for the final performance on 26 June.
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WISH UPON A BARD
The city’s unofficial logo is a totem-like tower of the Town Musicians of Bremen standing on each other’s backs (the real logo is the Key of St Peter). The official statue of the musicians stands in front of the Town Hall and was erected in 1953. The bronze piece is now a popular attraction for tourists, as much for its historical significance as for its supposed ability to grant wishes. Here’s how you do it: grab the donkey by both its front hooves, close your eyes and make a wish. No one-hoofed wishes are allowed! Rubbing the donkey’s snout is also thought to bring good luck.
The Brothers Grimm didn’t actually write The Town Musicians of Bremen; they were folklore collectors, and documented the stories attributed to them from local sources. However, Bremen is significant to their work as it is the end of the so-called Fairy Tale Route (www.deutschemaerchenstrasse.com), which winds 580km from the brothers’ birthplace in Hanau, to Bremen via many of the places that they collected their famous fairy tales.
AT THE HOTEL…
EVERYTHING FROM BUDGET TO BLING
Bremen is very well connected by a tram service that criss-crosses the city and connects most points of interest directly. This means that even if you aren’t staying in the very centre of town, you can access all the juicy stuff quickly and easily from your hotel.
However, if you want to drop those bags off immediately after landing, the Holiday Inn Express Bremen (www.express-bremen-airport.de, doubles from €80 7 ) is less than a five-minute stroll from Bremen airport, and five minutes from the tram into the centre of town. Aside from all normal hotel amenities, you will be impressed by the fact that your pillows have been categorised in terms of their softness or firmness – solving that age-old “which pillow?” dilemma once and for all!
For a good position in the city itself, the Swissôtel (www.swissotel.com, doubles from €120 8 ) sits right on the edge of the old city moat, and near the city’s last remaining windmill. Keeping things Swiss, the hotel is immaculately clean and stylish, with pieces of abstract art dotted about the public areas and even a quick quote from the classic story Heidi on the headboards. Follow the spiral staircase up to Hillmann’s (www.hillmanns-restaurant.de) on the first floor for a modern, seafood-heavy European menu, or seek out trendy café Ô Place on the ground floor for finger food.
Not far away and slightly easier on the wallet is Best Western Hotel Schaper-Siedenburg (www.siedenburg.bestwestern.de, doubles from €66 9 ), offering small apartments for families or simple double rooms. It’s conveniently located near the main train station and not far from the Old Town.
Youths – or people who still think they are youths – can save even more money by checking into Jugendherberge Bremen (www.jugendherberge.de, B&B from €20.70 10 ), an eye-catching yellow-and-orange cube shining at one end of the Schlachte.
Prizeotel (www.prizeotel.com, doubles from €59 11 ) is Bremen’s first budget design hotel, part of what it describes as a “Designocrasy” – making high design concepts affordable to all. All neon green, purple and white, the colours are certainly very modern and the design gives the impression of staying in a Clockwork Orange-style futuristic pod hotel (in fact, the Prizeotel even has its own podcast). It has TVs hidden in the mirrors and eyes that follow you around the room courtesy of the artwork on the walls.
More futuristic design can be found right by the massive Waterfront Mall and the Seebühne at Innside by Meliá hotel (www.. innside.de, doubles from €99 12 ), which combines cosmic views of the universe on the walls with pop art furniture. High-tech relaxation is available at the Fit for Future wellness centre, or go interstellar by dining at the Starwalker Restaurant.
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Bremen is home to one of the tiniest hotels in the world: the Hochzeitshaus, or “Wedding House” (www.hochzeitshausbremen.de, doubles €350 13 ). Carlsberg-style, they advertise themselves as “probably the smallest hotel in the world”. It is but an intimate affair, with just one room for a couple, newly wed or not. If you’re looking for a romantic home of your own in Bremen, this is just the ticket – although bear in mind that it is located in the tightly cramped-together Schnoor district, so be sure to draw the curtains closed! In fact, the story goes that one young couple were simply too overcome in the heat of the moment to remember to do this, and found themselves receiving a hearty round of applause from nosy onlookers after their performance! However, rather than wilt in embarrassment, the bride apparently took her husband’s top hat and passed it from window to window for donations from their appreciative audience – which financed much of the rest of their honeymoon!
ON THE TABLE…
FINE FOOD AND FINER PRICES
You find French appearing on menus quite a lot, as though words like jus, crème and flambé actually make the food taste better. But why are German words never used? Perhaps it’s because German food is the epitome of “no nonsense” – no excessive flourishes, no pointless garnish, just good, hearty, healthy nosh. And that’s a reason to love it. Another reason to love it is that you don’t have to spend much money to get loads of food on your plate.
Take the Ratskeller (www.ratskeller-bremen.de 14 ), perhaps Bremen’s most venerable gastronomic institution. Nothing on the menu exceeds €20, yet I defy you not to be full after one dish. For local flavour try Bremer Knipp, a satisfying dish of smoked pork, fried potatoes and apple sauce, for under €10. Or you could have the North Sea plaice with crab butter, potatoes and gherkins for just under €20 – the high end of the menu. Simple, yet delicious.
Originally set up in 1405 to hold all of Bremen’s wine, the Ratskeller has been the largest repository of German wine for more than six centuries, with vintages spread over 5,000m2. So synonymous with German wine has the cellar become that outraged letters were sent to local newspapers just a few years ago when the establishment took the controversial step of serving beer!
If you insist on spending money, you could find no better place to do so in Bremen than at Schröter’s Leib und Seele (www.schroetersschnoor.de 15 ) in Schnoor. After 15 years as a stand-out establishment headed by Rainer and Constanze Schröter, last September saw them hand over to their son, Daniel, who has taken to the job with inventive gusto. Try the painstakingly sculpted turbot on radicchio and mashed potato with fennel salad, or the Trio of Deer, in which deer is served with chestnut couscous, puréed red beetroot and finally a chocolate sauce. You’ll be surprised at how natural this seemingly incongruous combination tastes. Finish off your meal with a shot of Haas Edelbrennerei liqueur, which continues the chocolate theme, tasting and smelling exactly like Nutella! Choco fans will be pleased that on 6 May Daniel also opened his latest venture right next door in the form of Chocolaterie und Patisserie Schröter (www.schroeters-chocolaterie.de 16 ).
For something a little more global, Le Madame Hô’ (www.madameho-bremen.de 17 ) is your place, serving Eurasian cuisine in a luxurious Vietnamese setting. I only just got a seat when I turned up, so booking ahead is a good idea. But once sat, I enjoyed a mildly spicy tom sum of duck with sesame and shiitake mushroom to start, followed by succulent deer on a bed of potato salad and bean passatina.
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OK, so you’ve stuffed yourself full of Bremer Knipp, but I hope you’ve saved some space for dessert. Germans love their sweets (not just Haribo either), and Bremen has a trio of treats that sound like fairy-tale characters: Klaben, Kluten and Babbeler. Klaben is normally eaten at Christmas and is a sweet bread baked with dried fruits and rum. ’Tis not the season, but try some anyway. Kluten are little cubes of peppermint partially covered in chocolate, and qualify as a sophisticated sweet. Babbeler are the kind of things that parents refuse to give their children in case they go hyper: a stick of pure peppermint caramel to eat like a lolly. All these can be bought at Bäckerei W. Schnaare (www.baeckerei-schnaare.de 18 ). On Böttcherstrasse you can salivate while watching candy artisans at work, at Bremer Bonbon Manufaktur (www.bremer-bonbonmanufaktur.de 19 ).
And by the Town Hall you can pick up a packet of Bremen’s own classic chocolate Hachez (www.hachez.de 20 ) from their store.
AT THE BAR…
COOL CAVES AND ICE-COLD BEERS
Right, I know it’s late and you’re all itching to go out, but after dark please take a moment to walk around the old town. It’s now that you can properly appreciate the beauty and elegance of the Town Hall, St Peter’s Cathedral and the Schütting – all lit up and free from locals and tourists buzzing around them.
OK, that’s the equivalent of eating your vegetables! Now move on to dessert. Bremen’s nightlife is undoubtedly centred on the Viertel, a trendy scruffbag quarter. It’s a few hundred metres away from the old town geographically yet a million miles away stylistically. And if the Viertel has a beating heart, it would have to be Lila Eule (www.lilaeule.de 21 ).
Bremen’s most iconic club, the “Purple Owl” opened in 1959 as a jazz bunker hosting the likes of Acker Bilk and Peter Brötzmann, and swiftly became caught up in the politics of the day. As the focal point in the city for the German Student Movement of 1968, it once hosted a rousing political talk by the movement’s figurehead, Rudi Dutschke, celebrated today by a poster of the man on one of the walls.
Its calendar packs an exciting punch, hosting live open-stage jazz every Wednesday, followed by a mixture of local underground bands, high-octane DJs and late, late nights on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Party among an eclectic crowd of trendies and students as they galavant around the labyrinth of stairs and sections.
But before hitting Lila Eule, veer off Ostertorsteinweg onto Fehrfeld for some pre-drinks. Walk past the residential houses until you meet Urlaub ( 22 ), Heartbreak Hotel (www.myspace.com/heartbreakhotelbremen 23 ) and Capri Bar ( 24 ), all within a few doors of each other. They’re like bars at a particularly dingy end of the universe and get crazier as you move along the street, from the chilled and dreamy Urlaub, through the Heartbreak Hotel, which seems to never close, along to Capri, which is set in a cave, but one that Wilma would never allow Fred to visit.
Not far away on Humboldtstrasse is Rum Bumper’s (myspace.de/rumbumpersbremen 25 ), a vaguely pirate-themed bar so smoky I thought they had just been firing ship canons when I first walked in! Slightly more down-to-earth venues can be found back on Ostertorsteinweg. Wohnzimmer (www.wohnzimmer-bremen.de 26 ) is a sofatastic place to relax with friends, while Litfass (www.litfass-bremen.de 27 ) has a long bar lined with people engaged in animated chatter over Haake Beck beer, and abstract art on the walls.
If you’re looking for more standard clubbing fare, leave the Viertel and drop into the wall-to-wall techno of Daslebenmeintesgutmitdir (www.daslebenmeintesgutmitdir.com 28 ), or gravitate towards the cheesy flashing lights of Stubu (www.stubu.de 29 ).
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In a number of cities around Germany, you may come across bars called Ständige Vertretung (meaning “permanent representation”). These venues were once administration centres that acted as quasi-embassies between East and West Germany until reunification in 1990. No longer serving their original function, the only logical option was taken – they were turned into pubs! Bremen is one of only five cities – alongside Berlin, Hamburg, Hanover and Cologne – to boast a Ständige Vertretung. Take a break from shopping in the old town and get yourself down to this historic boozer (www.staev.de 30 ), nestled nicely in the charming surrounds of Böttcherstrasse. Cosy and traditional, it’s a place for a chill and a chat. The walls are plastered with pictures from Germany’s history, including one of the UK’s Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip visiting Bremen’s Town Hall, lending the venue a political atmosphere – which is probably why the beer is so essential!
IN THE BAG…
From here the streets snake off in different directions, seemingly entirely covered by glass awnings and containing all the retail goodness you could wish for. In particular, check out Katharinen-Passage, the even more palatial Domshof-Passage (www.domshof-passage.de) and Lloyd Passage (www.lloyd-passage.de). The latter is also known as the “Mall of Fame”, having taken a leaf out of Hollywood’s book with a series of famous handprints and signatures moulded into bronze plaques. These shopping havens bombard you with big-brand names – perfect if you want to purge your wallet in the afternoon.
Mere metres away from all this gleaming modernism though is the old town, where a flower market takes place on Monday to Saturday mornings on Unsere Frauen Kirche Square, and numerous shops selling Bremen-related objects line Böttcherstrasse.
For a quainter shopping experience, head to the gorgeous Schnoor district – a charming muddle of 15th-, 16th- and 17th-century houses. Amble past the bakeries, shops selling ships in bottles and art shops, and tell me it doesn’t all make you smile! One particularly important shop is Atelier GAG (www.ateliergag.de 31 ), a rather famous place dealing in the art of paper folding. You’ll be simply amazed: everything from animals to World War II bombers to entire cathedrals are available to fold and glue into realistic shapes. Some of the models hanging from the ceiling are intimidatingly brilliant. If you have the perseverance, sets cost €2.50–€29.50.
A bit more surreal is Weinachtsträume (www.weihnachtstraeume.de 32 ) with its three higgledy-piggledy storeys devoted entirely to Christmas decorations. And it’s open 365 days a year! You might not need any decorations at this time of year, but it is still worth popping in briefly to see the remains of the original Bremen fortification wall as part of the shop.
To the east in Viertel, walk down Ostertorsteinweg. Here you can feast your eyes on the beautiful musical instruments available at Hoins Intermusik (www.hoins-intermusik.de 33 ), buy some of the refreshingly down-to-earth clothing from local fashion brand The Lucky Fish (www.theluckyfish.de 34 ), or pick up some classic and new vinyl or a dusty book from independent record and book store Golden Shop (www.thegoldenshop.org 35 ). After all that you’re probably in need of some refreshment, and you’re in the right place, since Viertel is overflowing with cafés, bars and restaurants for weary shoppers to lay their bags down for a second.
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Any visit to Bremen requires sampling their home-grown beer, Beck’s, which is on tap in almost every establishment in town. But if you’re interested in more than just the taste, head down to the imposing Beck’s Brewery (www.becks.de 36 ) by the Weser river for their highly educational tour. Starting out in a lecture theatre, you are given a brief history of the company before touring the facilities and seeing how the beer goes from the basic three ingredients of barley, hops and yeast, to become Beck’s and all its various offshoots. At the end, the “education” continues with a tasting of their various beers. Costing €9.50, the tours operate from Thursday to Saturday and booking is required. Incidentally, take a look at the Beck’s “key“ logo, and compare it with Bremen’s key emblem. They are very similar, but you will notice that the Beck’s key is flipped to face the opposite direction. One story goes that Beck’s wanted to pay homage to their home town, but were required to change the image, so as not to associate the city with alcoholism!
1 / HACHEZ BROWN LEAVES
Bremen’s own Hachez chocolate brand is 120 years old this year, and these leaves are its signature range. The Hachez shop is found right by the Ratskeller in an ornately wood-carved building fitting of the quality of these treats. €4.50, www.HACHEZ.DE
2 / WESERBURG BOOK
In 2007, pioneering art gallery the Weserburg hosted an exhibition of works collected by jazz producer Siegfried Loch, who has a special affinity for the colour blue – a very jazzy colour! This book contains images from the show and a Jasper van ’t Hof CD simply called Blau. €25, www.WESERBURG.DE
3 / BREMEN BEER MUG
Bremen has a split personality when it comes to alcohol. On the one hand it is the biggest repository of German wine in the country, and on the other it is the birthplace of Beck’s. This sturdy beer “krug” features the Town Hall on one side and the musicans of Bremen on the other. €22.50
4 / STADTMUSIKANTEN GUMMIS
One thing you can’t fail to notice in Bremen is the profusion of musicians of Bremen souvenirs. They appear on mugs, shirts, bags, hats and puzzles – but these gummi sweets take the commercialisation of this story to its logical German extreme! €1.75
5 / METAL FROG
Böttcherstrasse is an industrious street, with all sorts of proper hands-on craftsmanship from jewellery to ceramics. This slightly drunk looking metal frog is an example of the more child-oriented objects available at Werkschau Laden (8–10 Böttcherstrasse). €6.50
WHERE IT’S AT…
MAP & CONTACTS
1 Böttcherstrasse / 2 Weserburg 20 Teerhof, tel: +49 (0)421 598390 / 3 Universum Bremen 1a Wiener Strasse, tel: +49 (0)421 33460 / 4 Überseemuseum 13 Beim Handelsmuseum, tel: +49 (0)421 1603 8101 / 5 Theater Bremen 1–3 Goetheplatz, tel: +49 (0)421 365 3653 / 6 Seebühne 3 Weserstrasse / 7 Holiday Inn Express Bremen 5 Hanna-Kunath-Strasse, tel: +49 (0)421 322850 / 8 Swissôtel 20 Hillmannplatz, tel: +49 (0)421 620000 / 9 Best Western Hotel Schaper-Siedenburg 8 Bahnhofstrasse, tel: +49 (0)421 30870 / 10 Jugendherberge Bremen 6 Kalkstrasse, tel: +49 (0)421 163820 / 11 Prizeotel 12 Theodor-Heuss-Allee, tel: +49 (0)421 222 2100 / 12 Innside by Meliá 6 Sternentor, tel: +49 (0)421 24270 / 13 Hochzeitshaus 5 Wüste Stätte, tel: +49 (0)175 488 3060 / 14Ratskeller Am Markt, tel: +49 (0)421 321676 / 15 Schröter’s Leib und Seele 13 Schnoor, tel: +49 (0)421 326677 / 16 Chocolaterie und Patisserie Schröter 14 Schnoor, tel: +49 (0)421 326677 / 17 Le Madame Hô’ 41 Schlachte, tel: +49 (0)421 168 3870 / 18 Bäckerei W. Schnaare 7 Am Landherrnamt, tel: +49 (0)421 337 9307 / 19 Bremer Bonbon Manufaktur 8 Böttcherstrasse, tel: +49 (0)421 3649 1231 / 20 Hachez 1 Am Markt, tel: +49 (0)421 339 8898 / 21 Lila Eule 10–11 Bernhardstrasse, tel: +49 (0)421 794 0664 / 22 Urlaub 28 Fehrfeld, tel: +49 (0)421 958 6370 / 23 Heartbreak Hotel 29 Fehrfeld, tel: +49 (0)421 794 8875 / 24 Capri Bar 35 Fehrfeld, tel: +49 (0)421 704957 / 25 Rum Bumper’s 34 Humboldtstrasse, tel: +49 (0)421 794 7470 / 26 Wohnzimmer 99 Ostertorsteinweg, tel: +49 (0)421 163 2064 / 27 Litfass 22 Ostertorsteinweg, tel: +49 (0)421 703292 / 28 Daslebenmeintesgutmitdir 45 Am Wall / 29 Stubu 21 Rembertiring, tel: +49 (0)421 321423 / 30 Ständige Vertretung 3–5 Böttcherstrasse, tel: +49 (0)421 320995 / 31 Atelier GAG 31 Schnoor, tel: +49 (0)421 327463 / 32 Weihnachtsträume 45 Marterburg, tel: +49 (0)421 323262 / 33 Hoins Intermusik 49 Ostertorsteinweg, tel: +49 (0)421 325484 / 34 The Lucky Fish 31 Ostertorsteinweg, tel: +49 (0)421 222 3422 / 35 Golden Shop 4 Fehrfeld, tel: +49 (0)421 2416 9552 / 36 Beck’s Brewery 18–19 Am Deich, tel: +49 (0)421 5094 5555