On the Ground Malaga
Forget your preconceptions about the Costa del Sol, because Malaga is reinventing itself. Take your pick from the best bars, tapas restaurants, beaches, museums and more with our guide.
Words by Owain Thomas
Photography by Niccolo Guasti
GET THE VIBE…
CULTURE ON THE COSTA
As the most populous autonomous community in Spain, Andalucia is home to some of Spain’s most glittering jewels: Seville with its wild flamenco and famous oranges; Granada, home to the stunning Alhambra citadel and intoxicating Moorish history; and Marbella, glitzy playground to the stars. And then of course there is Malaga, whose phenomenal historical foundations, increasingly vibrant network of restaurants, bars, parks and shops, and proud cultural centres are attracting visitors for more than just sun, sea and sangria, and providing momentum for the city’s present bid to become European Capital of Culture in 2016.
This may seem like a long way off, but the build-up has been going on for centuries – and is everywhere you look. Founded by Phoenicians in 770BC, Malaga – like many other cities on Spain’s Mediterranean coast – passed through Roman and Arabic hands before finally coming under control of the Spanish in 1487.
This combination of influences is visible in the wealth of archaeological remains and monuments dotted around the city. But nowhere does this extraordinary mishmash appear more dramatically than on the battlements of the Moorish Alcazaba fortress. Overlooked by Gibralfaro Castle, a site dating back to the Phoenicians, it looms over an almost complete Roman amphitheatre.
Uncovered in 1951, little more than a decade after Civil War had devastated Spain (and Malaga in particular), this amphitheatre dating from the reign of Emperor Augustus was an important discovery that helped to connect the city’s proud ancient history with a new, progressive era. Playing the progressive role were the likes of Pablo Picasso, whose birthplace is here, and whose mind-boggling work has attracted high-minded art lovers for decades, which has helped to forge Malaga into a quietly cosmopolitan city that has shrewdly turned chaotic boom and investment to its advantage.
Today Malaga is putting creativity and culture at the heart of its development, regenerating old markets and dilapidated buildings into music venues, art galleries and theatres, as well as maintaining and modernising a bevy of historical sites, such as the Roman amphitheatre and the city’s stunning cathedral. The pedestrianisation of a once-congested historical centre has also helped to link all of these important architectural and cultural gems.
Not only are these improvements doing wonders for Malaga’s image, but they’re also having a positive impact on local traders, culture vultures and almost everyone who doesn’t drive a taxi. People, including me, who have often used the city as a springboard directly from the airport to the costas, are now holding our horses, sticking around for a few days and having our preconceptions of the place enjoyably blown to smithereens. We then return home almost evangelical about how marvellous it was.
Consummately running the gamut from old to new, sophisticated to hedonistic, this is a city that lives comfortably with its past yet knows the true value of having a good time. Having risen from the ashes of Civil War, I can honestly say that Malaga will impress even the most hardened checklist tickers among us with its dramatic reinvention. This reinvention continues today; always looking to the future, it is eager to place itself even more firmly on the map by winning its name as a European Capital of Culture. Thanks to an enticing combination of gregarious Andalusian spirit and a vibrant cultural revolution well underway, Malaga is looking better than ever and winning plenty of new admirers, among whom I evangelically include myself.
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ON THE STREET…
PICASSO, PARKS AND PLAZAS
Resist the lure of Malaga’s beaches for a few hours and you’ll be rewarded with a compact assortment of historical treasures, modern masterstrokes and backstreet curiosities that are all too often overlooked by sun seekers.
Start in the centre of town at the top of grand shopping street Calle Marqués de Larios. Named after the aristocrat and entrepreneur who was key to the city’s booming textile industry in the late 19th century, it is, rather appropriately, a polished marble shrine to the big-name clothing stores. Just behind it on Plaza de la Constitución, and dedicated to more spiritual fulfilment, you’ll find Iglesia del Santo Cristo de la Salud ( 1 ). One of three ancient churches within walking distance, it is arguably the city’s most impressive both inside and out.
Heading east, look out for the arched entrance to Chinitas Passage, a confluence of tight back streets. If you can avoid the sparks and cigarette smoke generated by knife sharpener/city historian Manuel Ocón, ask him more about the history of the passage, where his father’s (now his) shop has been for about three quarters of a century. Sharpen up your Spanish, then continue to the Cathedral of Malaga, an imposing Renaissance gem.
Moving west towards the Alameda Principal, you’ll come to the newly refurbished Mercado Central. Here you’ll find more characters to chat with, one of the most impressive stained-glass windows in town, and all the ingredients necessary for a siesta-inducing picnic.
Devour your lunch in the shade of the lush Paseo del Parque and recharge ready for CAC Malaga ( 2 www.cacmalaga.org). This contemporary art space opened on the banks of the Guadalmedina river in 2003, and was the first major boost to an area that had suffered some neglect in the past. The regeneration is still underway, so during the day would be the best time to see it.
Over near Plaza Merced, the Picasso Museum ( 3 www.museopicassomalaga. org) in the sumptuous Buenavista Palace is dedicated to the life and work of Malaga’s most celebrated son. The permanent collection includes paintings, sculptures and sketches from his early forays into cubism and later re-interpretations of the Old Masters.
To sample the latest creativity, join the locals at Teatro Echegaray ( 4 www.teatroechegaray.com), a former cinema in the newly pedestrianised backstreets spreading north of the cathedral. Opened last year, it’s one of the city’s hottest dance, music and theatre hubs. To visit one of the earliest, check out the Teatro Romano at the foot of the Alcazaba fortress. It was uncovered in 1951 after being hidden underground for centuries.
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GREEN WITH ENVY
If you want to stretch your legs, take a walk up to Gibralfaro Castle ( 5 ), a 14th-century fortress built on a site attributed to the founding Phoenicians, overlooking the city from a height of 131m. Down below you can also roam around the Alcazaba ( 6 ), an 11th-century Moorish palace. You’ll also be rewarded if you trek (or take a taxi) to La Concepcion Botanical Gardens ( 7 www.laconcepcion.malaga.eu). Founded in 1857 and open to the public since 1994, this exquisite open-air collection of tropical and subtropical flora is one of Europe’s wildest and most criminally underrated botanical gardens. Spectacularly carved into hills just north of the city, one highlight not to miss is the Around the World in 80 Trees route, taking in trees, bushes and climbers from five continents. And be sure to visit the Mirador viewing platform overlooking the city.To find out more and to book a multilingual tour, contact Carmen Castillo Vidal or one of her team.
AT THE HOTEL…
HIP HOTELS AND RURAL RETREATS
Whether you’re using Malaga as a base for a trip around the Andalusia region, excursions along the Costa del Sol or a tapas blowout in the city’s back streets, you can find hotels to suit all tastes and budgets.
Tucked behind the central train station, Barcelo Malaga ( 8 doubles from €125, www.barcelomalaga.com) is a surprisingly laid-back design hotel that’s just as popular with a working crowd – thanks to some impressive conference rooms – as it is with savvy weekend-breakers. But everyone wants to take advantage of the giant metal slide in the lobby when they’re checking out.
More refined frolics can be found within the 100 or so luxury rooms of the Vincci Seleccion Posada del Patio ( 9 doubles from €118, www.vinccihoteles.com). In the heart of the historic centre, this sumptuous five-star was built over the remains of an ancient Arab wall and remnants of a Roman port – both of which can be accessed from the hotel. However, most guests opt for the vertiginous view of these architectural treasures through the glass floor of the stylish Wall Bar.
If material goods are more your thing, then check into Petit Palace Plaza Malaga ( 10 doubles from €95, www.malagapetitpalaceplazahotel.com) just off Calle Marqués de Larios in the shopping district. Occupying a magnificent tomato- red building, garnished with wrought-iron balconies and sporting Trainspotting-orange interiors, this hotel cleverly sidesteps the inevitable debate on tastefulness by bribing every guest with a web-connected computer, and views over the cathedral for a lucky few.
Looking over the tree-lined Paseo del Parque, AC Malaga Palacio ( 11 doubles from €118, www.ac-hotels.com) takes four-star luxury to new heights. The 15th-floor Atico restaurant turns your routinely dull breakfast buffet into
one of the day’s highlights, affording sweeping views of Gibralfaro Castle and the sea from its terrace. There’s even a rooftop pool in case you spot the beach getting a bit busy.
The more intimate Hotel del Pintor ( 12 doubles from €60, www.hoteldelpintor.com) boasts 17 colourful rooms and one super- colourful foyer, featuring works by malagueño artist Pepe Bornoy. Walking distance from the late-night action on Plaza Merced and the neighbourhood vibes of Calle de la Victoria, it puts you in the heart of workaday Malaga and inside the mind of an artist.
Step back to the Malaga of 100 years ago at Malaga Lodge ( 13 doubles €39, www.malagalodge.com), a three-storey converted townhouse on a picturesque backstreet in La Victoria. Its shared kitchen and three shared bathrooms are cleaned daily, and its eight rooms (including two singles) are popular with a resourceful and sociable clientele.
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PLAYING THE FIELD
The Malaga province is home to some of Spain’s most dramatic landscapes. Away from the coast you’ll find huge panoramas dominated by mountains and sweeping valleys – dotted with pristine lakes, rivers and hillside pueblos. The best way to enjoy this perspective and experience the rugged charms of the interior is either to hire a car or book into a remote, rural hotel. Or perhaps both. Three of the best in no particular order include Hotel Molino de Santillan ( 14 doubles €120, www.molinodesantillan.es), a luxurious yet family friendly four-star near the ancient town of Axarquia; the Lagar Martinez finca ( 15 doubles from €44, www.lagarmartinez. com) found 25km outside the city in the heart of the Montes de Malaga Natural Park and boasting lodgings for about 46 people; and La Garganta ( 16 doubles €75 a night, www.lagarganta.com), a mountainside resort that suggests a more adventurous itinerary, including climbing, kayaking, biking, fishing and boating.
ON THE TABLE…
BUDGET EATS TO MICHELIN TREATS
Regardless of the number of people who rave about how amazing the tapas is in Andalusia, it will always be bar food to the locals. Even with its position in the tapas triangle – with Seville to the north-west and Granada to the north- east – and easy access to a Mediterranean fish tank, an abundance of lip-smacking ingredients is often secondary to the quality of the conversation. However, there are a few places that even the locals would rave about.
Built on the site of a former convent near the city’s cathedral, La Rebaná ( 17 www.larebana.com) was never going to get away with being mediocre. That said, it took a while before its award-winning architecture found the perfect partner in Carlos Caballero, a one-time winner of Andalusian Young Chef of the Year. Here you can enjoy well-executed and reassuringly expensive tapas dishes that echo both classic and contemporary influences.
Offering a more economical but no less adventurous menu, Uvedoble ( 18 www.uvedobletaberna.com) is an exciting new arrival to the historic streets near the Teatro Romano. Mixing well-known regional flavours with well- travelled influences, ambitious young chef/ owner Guillermo concocts delicious dishes like tuna tataki and chunky gazpacho that are quickly building a sturdy reputation.
If it’s just hearty salads you’re after (with the option of stuffed savoury pitas for reinforcement), then cheap and central Comoloco ( 19 ) is the place to be. Arrive before 2pm to make sure you bag a seat, or for a larger selection of wallet-friendly tapas bars and cafés head west to Avenida de Plutarco in Teatinos.
If your student days are well and truly over, book a table at contemporary MR.1 ( 20 www.restaurantemr1.com). Perched between the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro Castle, its terrace offers one of the best night views over the bay.
A little harder to find, but with an equally impressive terrace and view, El Campanario de Ignacio ( 21 www.elcampanariodeignacio.com) in the picturesque hillside district of Cerrado de Calderon offers a romantic ambience. Try Ignacio’s curried monkfish (fish dishes are his speciality) if you want to heat up proceedings.
Set in a former mansion house in La Victoria, Restaurante Montana ( 22 www.restaurantemontana.es) boasts stylish interiors and an enclosed terrace for dining under the stars. However, for a star of the Michelin variety – the city’s first and only – La Malagueta hosts the high gastronomy of José Carlos García at Café de París ( 23 www.rcafedeparis.com). Sample his intelligent blend of classic Mediterranean cooking, inspired by his father, and sublime culinary alchemy, inspired by working with some of Spain’s top chefs, within a smart and intimate space that retains a refreshingly informal atmosphere.
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Sardines divide opinion like no other fish. You either love them or hate them. Most landlocked city dwellers, for example, hate them because they nearly always come in tins and smell really, well, fishy – when all they wanted were the omega-3s. People who live on the Costa del Sol, on the other hand, have lovingly incorporated them into their culinary heritage and, being Spaniards, have turned cooking and eating them into an enjoyable summertime tradition. Preparation includes scrubbing, salting and finally skewering about six sardines side-by- side onto a thin stick. The stick is then dug into the sand around an olive or almond wood fire. The trick is to cook them with the heat not the flames, in order to keep the flavour. Sounds simple but it takes a pro to do it right. Scan the chiringuitos (beach bars) along Malagueta, Pedregalejo and El Palo beaches, for smoking barbecues surrounded by espetos de sardinas (skewered sardines) being grilled to order. You’ll love them.
AT THE BAR…
GET SOME TAPAS WITH YOUR TIPPLE
Malaga is awash with bars, but why so many? Well, if you consider that the average Spanish bar is a place to eat your breakfast, mid- morning snack, lunch, mid-afternoon snack and dinner, it’s not so surprising.
The Spanish love to meet, eat and drink, and one place to indulge in this lifestyle is Bar Lo Gueno ( 24 www.logueno.es). Open since 1967, it serves bacalao al pil pil (fist-sized chunks of cod in chilli oil), melt-in-the-mouth rabo de toro (bull’s tail) and albóndigas (meatballs) to locals who prefer the bustle of this narrow bar to the bustle of shoppers on nearby Calle Marqués de Larios. Just around the corner, La Cueva de 1900 ( 25 www.lacuevade1900.es) is a more spacious option, where the multitude of cured hams swaying from the ceiling should give you some idea of what to nibble with your local Victoria beer or wine.
For a taste of the region’s sweet fortified wines, Antigua Casa de Guardia ( 26 www.antiguacasadeguardia.net) is an old favourite. Very old. Since 1840, this barrel-packed bodega has been giving life to its role in the local saying: “Malaga has two cathedrals: one for religion, the other for wine.” Alternatively, join the crowds at El Marisquero ( 27 ), a lively seafood bar that benefits in trade and shade from the central market. Grab a small beer and large plate of fresh prawns, and look up at the market’s impressive stained-glass frontage once you’ve mastered the “blind peel”.
Across town near the lively bars of Plaza Merced, you’ll find a more typical example of Andalusian decoration. The terracotta floors, wall-mounted flowers and cool interior patios of El Pimpi ( 28 www.bodegabarelpimpi.com) combine to create an oasis of calm that has attracted a fair few of the Spanish glitterati over the years, as proved by the numerous pictures dotted about the place. There’s also a terrace overlooking the Roman amphitheatre.
If you prefer to look at Malagan history from a different angle, pop over to Teteria Zouk ( 29 zoukteteria.blogspot.com) and raise a glass of mint tea and a shisha pipe to the city’s Moorish history. These souk-styled tearooms are best enjoyed at night. Just like the artwork and buzzing vibe of newcomer Miss Noruega ( 30 missnoruega.blogspot.com) opposite Teatro Echegaray. Ask owner José where he got the inspiration for the name, or the design of the toilet ceiling, and you’ll be laughing like old friends before you know it – heading off with him and the rest of the bar to club Toulouse ( 31 www.toulouseclub.com) when he closes up.
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Given the abundance of bustling back-street tapas joints, intimate flamenco shows and flashy bars and clubs that stay open till dawn, the inimitable Andalusian party spirit should never be too hard to find once the sun goes down. But just as an often-stringent dress code may apply, it’s worth remembering there’s a time and a place for some parties. During the summer months, the best party atmosphere is undoubtedly found on the beach – where a starry sky, warm sand and a cool breeze come as standard. For a refined early evening atmosphere, expertly grilled sardines and a refreshing sundowner, head over to El Candado beach – a recent addition to the city’s coastal offering, boasting a semi-private beach and plush restaurant. Further up the coast, the chiringuitos along the beach in the former fishing district of Pedregalejo are a more bohemian option. They’re also popular with language students attracted to the area by a number of excellent language schools.
IN THE BAG…
VINTAGE CLOTHES AND WINES
This is a city where locals dress to kill, and nearly everyone seems to eat like a king – so it’s pretty obvious where your pocket money should be heading. Hunt for antiques, art, books, clothes and regional delicacies around Malaga’s uneven lattice of high streets and back streets and you’ll find a true taste of the region.
Calle Marqués de Larios may well be one of Spain’s most emblematic high streets, but at the end of the day it remains just that: a thoroughfare of big-name stores. You will, however, find a few classics among the fashion, mobile phone and shoe shops. For savoury treats, pop around the corner to Gorki ( 32 www.gorki.es), a lively tapas bar where you can take home any of the wines, hams or cheeses on the menu.
Next, scan the streets around Plaza Uncibay. Cincoechegaray ( 33 www.cincoechegaray.com) is among a new wave of independently run hot spots selling a carefully curated selection of Spanish (and some English) literature, graphic novels, and art and design tomes. They also have international music and coffee to keep your concentration levels up.
A few streets away, Find de Luxe ( 34 www.finddeluxe.com ) sells a wide range of vintage clothing to a demanding, nostalgic crowd, and across Calle Carreteria you’ll find the clothing and accessory balance turned on its head at La Habitacion de Kate ( 35 www.lahabitaciondekate.com). This diminutive shop of (mostly handmade) treasures is owned by two sisters, who stock kooky trinkets that look like bags, broaches, umbrellas and dresses – but better. Ask about the Fabrica workshop they’ve just started with local designers Paloma Hiles and Soap Rosa if you like what you see.
Like getting sunburnt on the first day, it’s almost inevitable you’ll see someone in Malaga that makes you think: “Holy moly! She looks amaaaazing in that dress.” To get that dress for yourself, try Como Pez en el Agua ( 36 www.comopezenelagua.net). Kitting out the foxiest women in Malaga with chic Spanish, French and English designer brands like Raasta, Jocomomola, Stella Forest and Olga de Polga, this is the thinking woman’s/genius boyfriend’s dress shop of choice.
Skate shop Griptape ( 37 www.myspace.com/griptapestore), located on Calle de la Victoria, which runs parallel to Plaza Merced, is the essential stop if you forgot to pack your board shorts and flip-flops in the rush to make her holiday perfect. And while the rest of the nearby shops between Plaza Merced and the Picasso Museum may verge on the tourist trap variety, the antiques at Almonedas Angelo ( 38 ) are well worth a rummage.
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Along with an abundance of olive groves and vineyards, the Malaga province is covered by almost 20,000ha of almond trees. Spreading out around the Guadalhorce Valley, Antequera and Axarquia, this is one of the main reasons why Spain is second only to the US as the world’s biggest producer of almonds. So along with picking up a litre of flavoursome olive oil or a bottle of characteristically sweet Malagan wine on your travels, it’s a good idea to look out for fresh almonds or local delicacies – including cakes, biscuits and oils – that are derived from the exotic little nut. You can also find a few weathered almond sellers dotted around the city dry-roasting their wares on mobile carts – handy if you fancy a boost of vitamin E while you’re knocking around the old town. Unfortunately, this year has been a particularly bad one for production, after heavy rainfall in the winter. So remember – you’ll be doing your bit for an ancient industry by scoffing a few bags!
1 DECORATIVE TILES
Malaga is a great place to seek out Andalusia’s famed pottery and ceramics. The city itself is also known for its metallic-tinged pottery and brightly coloured azulejos (tiles). I’ve already had my kitchen done so I found these ones in the airport for my niece. €12
2 TARTA MALAGUEÑA
Featuring the fruits of the Malaga province, this is a mid-afternoon classic. Made with sponge drenched in sweet Moscatel wine and liberally peppered with almonds and raisins, it’s a bite-sized taste of the countryside served up all over town. €5
3 CHUPA CHUPS
Edible Spanish history in a can. The company was founded by Spaniard Eric Bernat in 1958, the name comes from the Spanish verb chupar, meaning “to suck”, and the logo was designed by Salvador Dalí. Get some from Lepanto on Calle Marqués de Larios. €9
4 DIANA NAVARRO CD
Malaga-born singer Diana Navarro shot to fame with her album No te olvides de mi (Don’t forget about me) in 2005, but it is this later album of flamenco, opera and folk-influenced musings that really earns her the nickname “The Enya of Spain”.€9
5 WINE SELECTION
The winemaking industry of the Malaga province is one of the oldest in Europe, famous for its sweet, fortified wines. The areas around Antequera, Velez-Malaga and Competa produce gallons every year. Try out a few top varieties at tapas bar Gorki. €10
MAP & CONTACTS
1 Iglesia del Santo Cristo de la Salud 4 Calle de la Compania
2 CAC Malaga Calle de Alemania, tel: +34 95 212 0055
3 Picasso Museum 8 Calle San Agustin, tel: +34 90 244 3377
4 Teatro Echegaray 6 Echegaray
5Gibralfaro Castle 11 Camino de Gibralfaro, tel: +34 95 212 2020
6 Alcazaba 2 Calle de la Alcazabilla
7 La Concepcion Botanical Gardens 3 Camino del Jardin Botanico, tel: +34 95 225 2148
8 Barcelo Malaga 2 Heroe de Sostoa, tel: +34 95 204 7494
9 Vincci Seleccion Posada del Patio 7 Pasillo de Santa Isabel, tel: +34 95 100 1020
10 Petit Palace Plaza Malaga 3 Nicasio Calle, tel: +34 95 222 2132
11 AC Malaga Palacio 1 Cortina del Muelle, tel: +34 95 221 5185
12 Hotel del Pintor 27 Alamos, tel: +34 95 206 0980
13 Malaga Lodge 14 Calle Hospital Militar, tel: +34 66 653 4487
14 Hotel Molino de Santillan Carretera Macharaviaya (MA-106) km 3, tel: +34 95 240 0949
15 Lagar Martinez take road A-7000, tel: +34 95 265 7063
16 La Garganta Bda. El Chorro s/n, Alora, tel: +34 95 249 5000
17 La Rebaná 4 Calle Molina Lario, tel: +34 95 260 8534
18 Uvedoble 15 Calle Cister, tel: +34 95 124 8478
19 Comoloco 17 José Denis Belgrano, tel: +34 95 221 6571
20 MR.1 Calle Campos Eliseos s/n, tel: +34 95 221 1005
21 El Campanario de Ignacio 34 Paseo de la Sierra, tel: +34 95 220 2448
22 Restaurante Montana 5 Calle Compás de la Victoria, tel: +34 95 265 1244
23 Café de París 8 Calle Velez-Malaga, tel: +34 95 222 5043
24 Bar Lo Gueno 5 Calle Marin Garcia, tel: +34 95 222 3048
25 La Cueva de 1900 9 Calle Martinez, tel: +34 95 222 3976
26 Antigua Casa de Guardia 18 Alameda Principal
27 El Marisquero 7 Calle Olozaga, tel: +34 67 006 4804
28 El Pimpi 62 Calle Granada, tel: +34 95 222 8990
29 Teteria Zouk 3 Garcia Briz, tel: +34 65 827 3078
30 Miss Noruega 3 Calle Echegaray, tel: +34 66 185 7586
31 Toulouse 9 Calle Echegaray, tel: +34 65 142 1349
32 Gorki 6 Calle Strachan, tel: +34 95 222 1466
33 Cincoechegaray 5 Calle Echegaray, tel: +34 95 260 9352
34 Find de Luxe 9 Calle Casa Palma, tel: +34 65 452 0389
35 La Habitacion de Kate 12 Calle Ollerias
36 Como Pez en el Agua 4 Calle Fajardo
37 Griptape 28 Calle Victoria, tel: +34 95 222 4819
38 Almonedas Angelo 10 Calle San Agustin, tel: +34 95 221 2598
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